Old favorite: Mon Tricot Pullover and Scarf Hat

One of the first big knitting projects I started when I was a beginning knitter was a hooded scarf. I found the pattern in the D-J 1974 02094 Mon Tricot magazine.  (That's the photo from the magazine.) The hood was a simple stockinette pattern with a small design around the face. It was made in sportweight yarn and knitted with Size 2 needles. It should have been fast and easy. Five years later, the scarf languished in time-out. I don't think I ever finished it. I still like the idea of a hooded scarf. Now that sportweight yarn doesn't intimidate me, I wonder if I will try it again?  My notes say it needs 5 skeins of the main color and 1 skein of the alternate color. There are even directions for machine knitting. Now that would solve the boredom of endless stockinette!

Lesson learned?  Beginners need to see progress and sportweight yarn and Size 2 needles take forever to make a scarf.  If you are teaching a beginner to knit, may I recommend bulky yarn and something big, like Size 15 needles?

Let's see if I can post the directions from the magazine.  You will probably have to copy them and print them to get the directions large enough to read. The directions come in adult and child sizes.

Exploring the Mystery of Double Knitting

Hat rolled in up position

Some of the ladies in my Kansas Knits group wanted to know how I double knit. This is the answer I gave. You can find the pattern at http://alison. knitsmiths. us/pattern_ double_knit_ cap.html

The designer used a bigger needle and cast on a different number of stitches, but I find 72/144 on size 5 needles works for worsted weight yarn. Your mileage may vary depending upon how tightly or loosely you knit.

Double Knitting as I Do It: Basically you are carrying two unrelated items on your needles at the same time. The only thing the two parts of my hat have in common is the cast on row. After casting on, the front and back grow independently. I just knit them simultaneously. You don't knit one row, purl one row. You do them stitch by stitch -- one stitch knit, one stitch purl.

I know -- clear as mud.

I'll describe my hat. It takes 72 stitches on size 5 needles to go around an average head. Therefore I cast on twice that number of stitches in my alternate (inside) color. 144 stitches.

After joining the circle, I begin double knitting. I tie in the primary (front) color and knit every other stitch with the primary color. I carry this yarn in my right hand and knit American with it. At the same time, I purl the off stitches with the alternate color. I carry this yarn in my left hand and form the purl stitches by Continental knitting. The switching between American and Continental knitting is not required. It just helps me keep my yarns straight.

A row works like this.

Knit one with primary color. Pull yarn to front.
Purl one with alternate color. Leave yarn in back.
Pick up primary color and form the next knit stitch.

The back side of each row goes to the inside of the hat, so it is important that you develop the rhythm for bringing your primary yarn to the front so it lays inside against the purl layer, and the alternate yarn to the back so it also rides between the layers. You don't want to wrap that loose yarn the wrong way or it will show on the outside layers of the hat. Continue around.

At first the hat seems way too big because you see all of the 144 cast on stitches. After a few rows are on the needles the two layers have separated and the hat miraculously fits a head. Half the stitches are riding behind the other half forming the inside layer of the hat.

Once you get the rhythm, it's fun to do double knit, but frustrating because everything takes twice as long to make. The last hat I made I wanted to have done for a birthday. I figured if I sat up watching a movie, I would finish it about 2 AM. I ended up watching 4 movies and saw the sun come up. The hat was finished at 8:30 AM. Expect double knit to take extra time -- oh and don't watch interesting movies. I think I lost track of the knitting in there somewhere and got engrossed in the shows. :)

Hat in down position

One comment about length. I rarely make the hat the length given in the original pattern. My son wants to roll the cuff twice over his ears for maximum warmth, so I generally have 9 inches (or more) between the cast on row and the first band of alternate color. The orange hat above is about that long. Perhaps I'll add a couple more inches next time so we cannot see the grandson make rude gestures with his mouth.

I have just finished five Spirit hats for my Kansas grandkids. The hats are quite easy to make -- there are only about 40 rows in a hat. I can make one in about four uninterrupted hours. Yeah -- as if that is going to happen!

I'm sharing the pattern in case others would like to make hats for themselves or a family member. I apologize for not being able to include a sample of the graphing of the letters. There are some limitations to blogs. If you use it, please recognize me as the developer of the pattern.

School Spirit Hat


This might be a good project for beginning knitters. It gives practice with the knit and purl stitches and introduces Knit2Together decrease, knitting in the round, and Two-Color knitting. If creating words seems too advanced, the 5 rows of lettering could be changed to a solid band of Secondary color.

Any washable worsted weight yarn may be used for the hat. Red Heart works up stiff but softens a bit after washing. It will have a more defined shape that some other yarns. My favorite, Lion Brand Wool-Ease, is soft from the beginning and makes a hat that can be jammed into a coat pocket or worn with pride. Check your stash. You may have yarn on hand that will work.

Equipment needed:

• 16” Size 8 circular needles

• 1 set Size 8 double pointed needles

• 1 stitch marker that will fit size 8 needles

• 1 yarn needle

• ¼ inch grid graph paper

• Pencil

Yarn needed:

Worsted weight, any washable yarn:

• About ½ skein Primary color,

• About ¼ skein Secondary color

Step 1: Planning lettering

Using the graph paper, sketch out the letters that you will need for your hat. If either the school mascot or the person’s name is long, you may have to use some creative abbreviations to get everything to fit within 72 spaces. Remember you will need 3 spaces between Go and the Mascot name and at least 4 or 5 spaces between the “Go Phrase” and the person’s name as well as 4 or 5 spaces after the person's name.

Some mascot names may be too long to squeeze into 72 spaces if you include the wearer’s name as well. Experiment with the graph paper to see if you need to shorten “Wildcats” to “Cats” or just use the mascot and omit the person’s name. (“Go Trailblazers” would probably fill the entire hat.) Do try to include the person’s name. If an entire group of people – such as a pep club or a sewing class – wears identical hats, it will be hard to recognize your own if it gets misplaced.

I used block letters 5 stitches high to shape the letters. Most letters were 3 stitches wide (A, C, L, E, etc.) Some letters need more space to shape them: G, M, N. Y, but nothing required more than 5 spaces in width.

Directions for Hat:

Cast on 72 stitches with Primary color. Being careful not to twist the stitches, insert stitch marker between the stitch 72 and stitch 1 and knit in stitch 1 to join the circle. Weave in the long tail from the cast on as you knit or later (your choice.)

Rounds 1-8: *K2, P2* ribbing to form cuff.

Rounds 9-16: Knit each row.

Rounds 17-21: Two color knitting

Following the graph you created for your lettering, pick up Secondary color and knit the letters with the Secondary Color and the spaces with the Primary color. Carry the second color behind the one being used; catch it every 3-4 stitches so it doesn’t cause the back side of the fabric to become a snarled nest of yarn. When Round 21 is finished and all letters have been formed, cut Secondary yarn leaving a long tail. Carry the tail, catching it behind the primary color, for at least 3 inches to secure it completely.

Rounds 22-30: Knit each row.

First Decrease round: Round 30: Knit first two stitches together (K2t), knit 10 stitches, K2t, Knit 9 stitches, K2t, Knit 9 stitches, K2t, Knit 9 stitches. There will be seven decrease sections. These will form a pie shape wedge as you taper toward the top of the hat.

Round 31: Knit around.

Repeat rows Round 30 and 31, reducing one stitch between the decreases each row. For example: Round 32: K2t, knit 9, K2t, knit 8, K2t, knit 8, K2t, knit 9, K2t, knit 8, K2t, knit 8, K2t, knit 8. :

Round 34: K2t, knit 8, K2t, knit 7, K2t, knit 7, K2t, knit 8, K2t, knit 7, K2t, knit 7, K2t, knit 7, etc.

Continue in pattern until the last round is: K2t, knit 1, K2t, K2t, K2t, knit 1, K2t, K2t, K2t.

(This assumes you are knitting with 4 dpn.) When it becomes uncomfortable using the circular needles, switch to the double point needles (dpn). Insert the first double point at the beginning of a decrease. Put two sets of decreases on the first and second needles and three sets of decreases on the third needle. Use the free double point to knit from the ones carrying stitches.

After the last round, cut the yarn leaving a long tail. Thread the needle with the tail yarn and thread it through the stitches on the needles. Remove each needle after the stitches are on the yarn. Pull up the drawstring to tighten circle at the top of the hat, slip the yarn needle through to the back and tie off the yarn. Leave a short tail (about ½”) so it doesn’t unravel, and enjoy the hat!

Machine washing the hat will help even out stitches and soften the yarn. If you have a wig stand, let the hat dry on the stand to shape it to your head. (That’s nice, but not required.)

Tricks for Two-Color Knitting

Carrying yarn: I carry the color that is being used the most (dominant yarn) in my right hand, knitting American, and carry the second color (carried yarn) in my left hand, knitting Continental. This allows me to catch the “carried yarn” behind a knit stitch periodically. I do this by laying the second color over the top of my knitting needle, throw the yarn with my right hand to form the knit stitch, then the draw the dominate yarn through the loop. The carried yarn stays behind the fabric, but is caught in the knitting so it can’t be pulled loose. This technique may also be used to weave in tails from casting on or joining yarn.

Switching hands: If you have a run of carried yarn that is more than 4 stitches long, switch the hands that carry the yarn. If blue yarn has been the dominant yarn and gold the carried yarn, put gold in the right hand and blue in the left. This lets you continue to catch the carried yarn every 2-3 stitches. It makes for a neater backside to your work and prevents loose threads that may catch on something.

Need more help for knitting with circular needles or Continental or American knitting? Check out http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/advanced-techniques (circular needles) or http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/knit-stitch (Continental and American knitting).

Copyright 2009 Iris Jones

Hat for Michelle's Baby

Jennie's best friend from junior high and high school is due to have her first baby this month. It's a girl. Who knows? She may even be born on the same day as one of Jen's two children. Reyes' birthday is Mar. 15 and Lala is Mar. 16.

I've knit a hat for the baby. It's from pink baby yarn that was in my stash. The label is long gone, but I'm sure it is a machine washable acrylic. I don't buy anything else for babies.

I started the hat on a road trip between hither and yon. It was going to be booties, but the gauge was off. Not having a pattern and feeling the need to knit, I cast on 100 stitches, joined them in a circle and let the yarn tell me what it wanted to be.

It wanted to be a soft cable knit stocking hat. I made it large because winter is nearly over in Texas. It should fit next winter when the baby is a toddler and be with her for several seasons.

Snowflake Detail of Hat

I am pleased how the snowflake worked out on the top of this hat. I graphed the long ends, but didn't really think about how the decreases would look. I placed the decreases to fall at the center of the long and short arms of the snowflake. I love the way the swirl adds an extra dimension to the snowflake.

Fortunately-Unfortunately Hat

It's done! Above is a picture of the Fortunately-Unfortunately, as well as the At Last They Are All Mine Socks that match it. Right after this photo was snapped, I had the Bright Idea to wash the hat and put it back on the mannequin. Perhaps the hat would stretch while it was being blocked.

The technique seems to be working. The hat is dry now, but I haven't taken it off the wig stand yet to try it on my head. I'm afraid it will still be too small for me. I'll try it -- tomorrow -- at Tara. Fortunately/Unfortunately Hat.

Fortunately there was nearly a skein of sock yarn left over to make a hat.
Unfortunately, it wasn't enough to finish the hat.
Fortunately, I visited Whimsical Wool and Elizabeth found me a white merino to use with the blue-green hand-dyed yarn.
Unfortunately, I had 2/3 of the hat finished and the snowflake design I imagined wasn't working into the crown of the cap as I wanted.
Fortunately, I don't mind frogging.
Unfortunately, I can't count. -- The new snowflake border didn't work, either.
Fortunately, I have graph paper. Several sheets of paper later, I have the border and the big snowflake for the crown graphed so it comes out even. I knit merrily away over the weekend. The hat goes everywhere with me.
Unfortunately, we were traveling when I finished the green section and I didn't have any scissors to cut the yarn to finish with white.
Fortunately, Pat has his handy-dandy Coffey County Library pocket knife that includes a pair of scissors.
Unfortunately, I'm not finished, so I can't tell you how this saga ends, but I'm doing the decreases on the crown and it's looking good. [I finished it at 4:00 AM Thurs. morning. What else do you do when you wake up to go to the Juan and can't get back to sleep?]

AND Fortunately there is enough green left to put a tassle on the top! [The tassle looked wimpy. I removed it.]

Unfortunately -- I'm afraid the hat is knit too tightly to fit any person in the family. Oh, well. Maybe there will be more grandkids -- someday. I can save it for them. [Blocking was the key! I washed the hat and left it on the wig head to dry. When I took it off, it fit! Now my hat will match my socks.]

Third Time's the Charm Hat Story

My maiden name is Hull. It's an English name, but Grandpa was the oldest of seven children raised by a proper German patriarch. (You can read that as Stubborn-Old-Man-Who-Knew-He-Was-Right.) Grandpa married a fine Irish girl who had her own brand of stubborness and it came down through the family. Hull stubbornness is legendary. We alternately lament it and take pride in it, and I am truly a Hull, even if I am now called Jones.

I am also an avid knitter, so the call for Hats for the State Librarian's Luncheon sent me to the yarn store. I was going to make a hat for the luncheon. I could see it -- a fine knitted fedora, sitting next to the Maltese Falcon that has resided in glory in the SEKLS office. I'd snap it's picture, just as if Sam Spade had tossed it there, then send the hat and the picture off to the luncheon.

The hat was finished two weeks ago. There was no way it would even begin to take the shape of a fedora. It had decided it was a nice warm stocking hat, and stocking hat it would be... and a rather plain, shapeless stocking hat at that. It wasn't anything I wanted to send to the luncheon.

Okay. I'd make something else. I'd make the chenille hood that I've always enjoyed wearing. Back to the yarn store, get more yarn, and I'm off and running. I carried the yarn with me to KLA Legislative Day and was spotted Knitting in Public in various places as I waited to speak to legislators. By the time I got home, I was on a roll. It was half finished. I was going to finish it before the weekend was out. I worked most of the day Saturday. It was really going good. I WAS going to have it finished before I went to bed. (Nothing quite like a goal driven stubborn Hull.) I finished it, too. At 4:00 AM. The next morning I tossed it in the washer to tidy it up. It would be ready to send off on Monday.

No. It wasn't. Something happened in the washer. Some stitches tightened up. Some hung out like Mick Jagger's tongue in a Rolling Stones logo. This was another terrible, ugly hat.

By this time, most folks would have quit knitting and bought a hat to send to the State Librarian's Luncheon. Not me. At 6:30 Sunday evening, I ripped out the hood, rewound the yarn and started over. This time it would be my classic crocheted Tam-o-Shanter. That pattern has never failed me. I finished it at 1:00 Monday morning. I'm NOT putting it in the washer to tidy up. I'm not photographing it next to the Maltese Falcon, but I am going to package it fast -- while it still looks like a Tam and send it to the State Librarian.

We Hulls are stubborn. Sometimes it pays off.

Crocheted Tam-O-Shanter

Ok, it's not knitting, but I love this pattern. I went looking for it to teach it to a friend, but couldn't find the original. Gee. It's only from the 1960s. Why can't I lay my hands on it?

I studied the hat and wrote the instructions. I'll post it here for posterity.

Crocheted Tam-o-Shanter
If you add a pom-pom to the center of the top, it’s a Tam-O-Shanter. If you leave it plain, it’s a beret. I like to change the color of the last two rows to make a trim.
I’m a bit vague on what size crochet hook I used to make my first Tam. Probably an F or a G. Choose one that fits your yarn. Adjust the stitches according to the thickness of your yarn (bulky will need fewer stitches and fewer rounds) Directions are given for worsted weight yarn.
YARN: 1 skein primary color (Color A); 1 small ball of scrap yarn for trim (Color B).
Stitches you need to know: chain stitch, double crochet, slip stitch, decrease, single crochet.
Abbreviations: Ch = chain stitch; DC = double crochet; SS = slip stitch; DEC = decrease; SC = single crochet. Repeat directions between the *s.

To do a decrease: Work 1 DC until there are 2 loops on the hook, work next DC until there are 4 loops on the hook. Yarn over the hook, pull through and work off 2 loops. There will be 3 loops left on your hook. Yarn over and pull through to work off last 3 loops. One loop will be left on the hook to create the next stitch.
Adjustments for hook size and yarn differences: If work will not lay flat after each round, omit last increase (“DC 2 in following stitch”) of each round. Your row count will change, but the overall effect will be the same. The important thing is to have the increases evenly spaced around the circle. As long as your increases are spaced evenly apart (hence the 1 DC between, then 2 DC between, then 3, etc.) the circle will grow evenly. You should be able to see a “pie shape” pattern growing between your increases.
You may not notice a wave in the edge until several rows past the spot where you should have dropped the extra increase. If that is the case, rip out your work to the last point it laid flat, and redo it omitting the last increase.
Pattern:
Center: Chain six and join (by slip stitching to first stitch of the row). Ch 3. (12 stitches)

1. 1 DC next to Ch 3. *DC 2 in each stitch* around. Join. Ch 3. (1^st Ch3 counts as 1 DC when counting; 24 stitches)
2. 1 DC next to Ch 3. *DC 2 in each stitch* around. Join. Ch 3. (36 stitches)
3. 1 DC next to Ch 3. *DC 1 in next stitch. DC 2 in following stitch* around. Join. Ch 3. (48 stitches).
4. 1 DC next to Ch 3. *DC 1 in next 2 stitches. DC 2 in following stitch* around. Join. Ch 3. (60 stitches)
5. 1 DC next to Ch 3. *DC 1 in next 3 stitches. DC 2 in following stitch* around. Join. Ch 3. (72 stitches)
6. 1 DC next to Ch 3. *DC 1 in next 4 stitches. DC 2 in following stitch* around. Join. Ch 3. (84 stitches)
7. 1 DC next to Ch 3. *DC 1 in next 5 stitches. DC 2 in following stitch* around. Join. Ch 3. (96 stitches)
8. 1 DC next to Ch 3. *DC 1 in next 6 stitches. DC 2 in following stitch* around. Join. Ch 3. (108 stitches)
9. 1 DC next to Ch 3. *DC 1 in next 7 stitches. DC 2 in following stitch* around. Join. Ch 3. (120 stitches).
10. 1 DC next to Ch 3. *DC 1 in next 8 stitches. DC 2 in following stitch* around. Join. Ch 3. (132 stitches; circle should be 11”to 12”” in diameter).

Begin decreasing to make fold and size down to head band:

1. 1 DC next to Ch 3. *DC 1 in next 8 stitches. DEC in following 2 stitches* around. Join. Ch 3. (132 stitches)
2. 1 DC next to Ch 3. *DC 1 in next 6 stitches. DEC in following 2 stitches* around. Join. Ch 3.
3. 1 DC next to Ch 3. *DC 1 in next 5 stitches. DEC in following 2 stitches* around. Join. Ch 3.
4. 1 DC next to Ch 3. *DC 1 in next 4 stitches. DEC in following 2 stitches* around. Join. Ch 3.
5. 1 DC next to Ch 3. *DC 1 in next 3 stitches. DEC in following 2 stitches* around. Join. Ch 3.
6. 1 DC next to Ch 3. *DC 1 in next 2 stitches. DEC in following 2 stitches* around. Join.

Headband:

1. Ch 3. 1 DC next to Ch 3. *DC 1 in each stitch* around
2. Ch 3. 1 DC next to Ch 3. *DC 1 in each stitch* around
3. Cut yarn. Join trim color. “Bury” ends by SC over them in this row. *SC 1 in each stitch* around.
4. *SC 1 in each stitch* around.
5. SS around to secure edge. Cut yarn. Weave in end.

Pom-Pom:
To make a 1”-2” pom-pom.

1. Wind Color B yarn around a heavy piece of cardboard or object about six inches wide (at least 2 inches larger than finished pom-pom diameter, to give you “trim room”.). Make at least 100 windings. You want a full pom-pom. More can’t hurt.
2. Pinch center and hold it firmly. (You may want a helper if this is your first time making a pom-pom.)
3. Slip yarn off cardboard.
4. Tie tightly with a piece of matching yarn. Leave tie ends long for attaching to hat. TIE VERY TIGHTLY. You don’t want threads slipping out of the pom-pom.
5. Fluff to make it take a ball shape. It will be straggly.
6. Holding over a trash can by the tie ends, trim with sharp scissors until the ball is the right shape and “perky”. (Don’t cut the tie ends).
7. Place on hat and pull tie ends through outer edge of the center circle. Tie securely. Bury ends under crochet loops.

Above is the first crocheted Tam I ever made -- circa 1968. I still wear it. It was made from the scrap yarn left over from an Icelandic sweater my mother knitted for my brother. That's some good yarn!

Double Knit Hats for the Boys of all Ages

This is a wonderful, warm hat pattern. I found it at the following site : http://alison.knitsmiths.us/pattern_double_knit_cap.html

It's so much fun to do double knit and watch both layers grow as you go! It is a standard watch-cap style ski hat. My husband, Pat, wanted a cuff that the original pattern didn't have, so I added two inches before doing the stripes. That means his hat is 7 inches to the first stripe instead of 5 inches.My son wants even more length because he wants to roll the cuff twice. I anticipate 9-12 inches before the first stripe on the next hat I make him. (Pretty soon I'll just make him a hooded sweater and be done with it. :) )

Many of the hats I have mader are made with two colors of Lion Brand Wool-Ease. I used needles that let me knit to gauge, but it still came out too large. The pattern says to cast on 164 stitches. I cast on 154 stitches. (That means the decreases begin at 5 not 7 later on.) It is still loose on Pat, so I plan to make the grandsons' hats 144 stitches in circumference. The hat in the photo was made of Red Heart acrylic using size 6 needles. I cast on 72/144 stitches for this hat. This number of stitches means you have six decreases evenly spaced 12 stitches apart (for the first decrease.) Easy math!
I've made the pattern twice now. My son, Joe, who is going to college at Emporia State University requested one last winter because his ears got so cold when the wind came whistling down between the buildings on winter days. He's a well-fed young man with a luxurious shock of hair. I made it to gauge, but still had to take out those ten stitches from the circumference the pattern. I made his hat from Red Heart acrylic yarn I had in my stash. I wanted something he could mistreat and keep on going. It's stood up well, but he is hinting he wants one like Pat's that has a longer body. It still doesn't cover his ears as far as he'd like. Personally, I think he really wants a double knit ski mask. Hm... wonder if anyone has a pattern for one of those?

Lion Brand Chenlle Hood

I'm going to make hats and hoods for the grandkids this year, but I'm starting early! Here's the first hood. It's from the Lion Brand Chenille hood pattern, but I used a different yarn. It worked up a bit tighter, so this will be for one of the younger granddaughters. The boys will get double knit ski caps.
(I was outvoted. When I visited the Indiana/Illinois grandkids in March they all prefered socks, not hats. Poor Emmy. The shrug I made her was outgrown within weeks of Christmas. I gave her this hood. She won't grow out of it.)
Pattern Number: 867 http://cache.lionbrand.com/patterns/kctq-hood.html?noImages=0

Velvety HoodLion Brand® Chenille Thick & Quick® Wear as a cowl, a neckwarmer or as a hood! SKILL LEVEL: Beginner SIZE: Small, Medium, Large Circumference 24 (26) inches Note: Pattern is written for smallest size with changes for larger sizes in parentheses. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. To follow pattern more easily, circle all numbers pertaining to your size before beginning. CORRECTIONS: None GAUGE: 8 sts = 4 inches (10 cm) in pat. BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE.

NOTEHood may be worked on circular needles or straight needles. VERSION A: HOOD (worked in-the-round on circular needles) Stitch Pattern Rnds 1-4 Purl. Rnds 5-8 Knit. Rep Rnds 1-8 for in-the-round version. Hood (in-the-rnd version) With circular needles, cast on 48 (52) sts. Join, taking care not to twist sts. Place marker for beg of rnds. Work in pat for in-the-rnd version until 23" from beg, ending with pat Rnd 4. Last rnd Bind off in purl. Weave in ends. VERSION B: HOOD (worked flat, back and forth on straight needles) Stitch Pattern Rows 1 & 3 (RS) Purl. Rows 2 & 4 Knit. Rows 5 & 7 Knit. Rows 6 & 8 Purl. Rep Rows 1-8 for flat version. Hood (flat version) With straight needles, cast on 50 (54) sts. Work in pat for flat version until 23" from beg, ending with pat Row 4. Last row Bind off in purl. Sew back seam. Weave in ends.

ABBREVIATIONS / REFERENCES Click for explanation and illustration beg = begin(s)(ning) pat = pattern rnd(s) = round(s) RS = right side st(s) = stitch(es)

Learn to Knit instructions: http://learnToKnit.LionBrand.com