Hand Knit Reticules

 Leon and I enjoy contra dancing (and a bit of living history re-enactment as well.) When I put on garb to go dancing, I hate to carry a modern purse. How tacky!

Reticules

Knitting to my rescue! I have started making reticules. The flat white one was designed to hold a cell phone, a few dollars and some ID. You can slip the drawstring on your wrist and keep it with you. (Don't swing your partner too enthusiastically. A cell phone up side of the head is no fun.)  

Contra Dancing 

My flat reticules are based on a toe up sock pattern, minus the heel. If my lady wishes a more traditional shape, she can also make a round drawstring bag, such as the one below. I have described it in other posts. I remember in the 1950s my mother and grandmother both carried large drawstring bags made of a lightweight but bulky nylon yarn. They were very similar in design to the small white bag I have made, just larger.

If you would like to make a flat reticule, here is the basic pattern. I cast on 20 stitches for both sizes of bags. The yarn size and needle size makes one smaller than the other. The white flat bag, for example, was knit with size 0 needles and acrylic fingering yarn. The salmon bag was knit with size 5 needles and Hobby Lobby's cotton Sinfonia yarn. The sea foam green yarn is also Sinfonia.

Cotton Reticule (to hold a large wallet)

Below are directions for the salmon cable knit reticule. You may use any design that can repeat over 18 stitches to decorate your bag.

1 skein cotton Sinfonia yarn from Hobby Lobby (this is closer to fingering weight than other cotton yarns such as Lily Sugar n' Cream, which is more a worsted weight.)
US Size 5 16-inch long circular needles or  US Size 5 double pointed needles (set of 5 needles). 
Stitch markers (one should be noticeably different from the others to mark the beginning of each round)
Cable stitch holder
Row counter

Circular knitting will be done by the Magic Loop method where loops of the cable protrude from either side of the project like rabbit ears. You will work across these loops when you move from one side to the other. If you prefer to circular knit with double pointed needles, I will define where to break for each needle.

Cast on 20 stitches.
Row 1: Increase in each stitch. (40 stitches).
3. If using a circular needle, remove needle from yarn, (Don't panic. Your loops will hold their shape). Starting from the side that does not have the ball end of the yarn, and alternating left needle/right needle work stitches onto each end of your circular needle. When done you will have 20 stitches on each needle. The left needle will hold the left stitches of each increase and the right needle will hold the right stitches of each increase.
3. If using double pointed needles: Leave yarn on 1st needle. Taking 2 new needles, work left and right as described above until 20 stitches are on each of 2 needles.
Row 2. Circular needles: Knit 5 stitches. Place unique marker to identify beginning of round.  Knit to stitch 20. Insert Row Counter onto cable. Knit to end. Pull a loop of cable out of the stitches between stitches 20 and 21 and between stitches 39 and 40. These are the Magic Loops that allow you to maneuver around your circle. Be sure to draw your stitches tight when you jump to the next row and close the loop to form the circle of this bag.
Row 2: Double pointed needles: Knit 5 stitches. Place unique marker to identify beginning of round. Knit until 1 stitch remains on first needle. Knit this stitch onto 3rd needle. Knit first stitch of 2nd needle onto 3rd needle. (2 stitches on new 2nd needle)  Knit next 18 stitches on old 2nd needle. When you reach the last stitch on the old 2nd needle, knit this stitch onto the 4th needle. Pick up 1st stitch from 1st needle and move it to 4th needle.  (2 stitches on 4th needle) You will now have 18 stitches on Needle 1; 2 stitches on (new) Needle 2; 18 stitches on (new) Needle 3; 2 stitches on Needle 4.  Attach Row Counter to end of Needle 4. Be sure to draw your stitches tight when you jump to the next row and close the loop to form the circle of this bag.

I will not distinguish between circular and double point needles for the rest of these instructions unless needed. Whenever you jump from one needle to another or across a Magic Loop, pull tension quite tightly for the first three or four stitches after the jump so the tension doesn't work loose at these joints. If the fabric below the joints keeps the same tension as the rest of your work and does not show excessive laddering, you are doing it correctly.

Row 3: *K1, P1, K1, P1.(mistake stitch pattern) Slip marker. Knit 10. Add marker. P1, K1, P1, K1 (continuing mistake stitch pattern). Increase as to knit in next 2 stitches.*(4 stitches on  Needle 2.)  Repeat between stars adding a marker after first 4 stitches. Double pointed needles now have 18 stitches Needle 1; 4 stitches Needle 2: 18 stitches Needle 3 and 4 stitches Needle 4.  Set Row Counter to 1. (44 stitches)
Row 4: *P1, K1, P1, K1. Slip marker. Knit 10. Slip marker. K1, P1, K1, P1. Knit 4.* Repeat to end. Set Row Counter to 2.
Repeat Rows 3-4 until 5 rows have been completed.
Cable Row: *Continue mistake stitch pattern for first 4 stitches. Slip marker. Transfer 5 stitches from left needle to cable needle. Move cable needle to back of fabric. Knit next 5 stitches. Pick up cable needle and knit those 5 stitches onto right needle. Slip marker. Continue mistake stitch pattern for next 4 stitches. Knit 4.* Repeat for other side. Reset Row Counter to 0.
Repeat Rows 3-4 until 10 rows have been completed.
Cable Row. Reset Row Counter to 0.
Make three full cables with 10 rows between each cable row.
After 4th cable row, reset Counter to 0. Continue in pattern for 5 rows.
Anchor Row: Knit to end. Remove all markers except 1st "unique" marker.
Drawstring Row: *K1, YO, K2tog* to end.
Anchor Row: Knit to end.
Knit next five rows. Bind off loosely.

Crochet or Icord two cords of equal length. If you want a short drawstring, make the cord long enough to go around your wrist about 1 1/2 times. If you wish a longer cord, make to your desired length. (I have made small phone bags with long cords that can be hung around the neck). Entering eyelets from one of the sides, weave one cord from the left and tie off. Weave second cord from the right and tie off opposite the first cord.  Pull each one out left and right the way the Magic Loops extended beyond the bag. Pull drawstrings to close the bag.

If desired, add fringe on the bottom by cutting yarn into 10-12 inch lengths. Group 5 strands together. Draw through the outer edge of bottom of bag. Pull through and loop the loose ends of the yard through the loop to make a half-hitch. Pull tight. Repeat at Center and then Opposite End. Fill in between these three points until the fringe is as full as you wish.

copyright 2016 Iris Evans

Look What Lion Brand Has!

http://cache.lionbrand.com/patterns/BK4K-0702003.html?noImages=0 Eco-Friendly Expandable Shopping Bag Lion Brand® Lion Organic Cotton GAUGE: 16 stitches by 24 rows = 4" (10 cm) with US #8 (5mm) needles BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE.

BAG With A and smaller needles, cast on 59 stitches. Rows 1-8: Knit Row 9: Knit 1, *bind off one stitch, knit 1. Repeat from * to end of row - 30 stitches. Row 10-34: Change to B and larger needles. Knit. Row 35: Change to A and smaller needles. Knit 1, **yarn over, knit 1. Repeat from ** until end of row -- 59 stitches. Rows 36-44: Knit Row 45: Change to circular needle. Place a marker. Knit to end of row. Cast on 196 stitches. Join, being careful not to twist knitting. Rows 46-50: Knit Row 51: Purl Row 52: Knit Row 53: Purl Row 54-58: Knit Row 59: Knit 59 stitches, bind off until the marker is reached. Row 60-68: Change to straight needle, knit. Row 69: Knit 1, *bind off one stitch, knit 1. Repeat from * to end of row - 30 stitches. Rows 70-94: Change to B and larger needles. Knit. Row 95: Change to A and smaller needles. Knit 1, **yarn over, knit 1. Repeat from ** until end of row -- 59 stitches. Rows 96-104: Knit Bind off all stitches. When the piece is lying flat before assembly, there will be two sides and a continuous loop that is the handle. FINISHING: Thread a large-eyed, blunt needle with about 24 inches [60 cm] of A. Starting at the bottom of the bag, sew sides to handle. Where A is joined to A, one row should join to one stitch. Where the side row of (A) is being joined to (B), the center part of the (B) stitches is positioned every third stitch on the strap. Tie off, weave in ends. During assembly, the two sides are folded up along the loop and sewn so that the continuous loop becomes the handle of the bag

Drawstring Knit Bag

When I was working on the most recent incarnation of the Toad Rock Tie, I had a lot of trouble with my yarn. It was very slippery and kept falling off the ball and making knots in itself.

My solution was to make the small drawstring bag above. I have since made two more. My second effort was made with size 6 needles/ size F crochet hook. It wasn't that much bigger in the base than the first, just taller. I didn't care for it. The third was made on size 8 knitting needles/size H crochet hook. The base is five rounds wide. It makes a very satisfactory bag for a standard sized skein of worsted. The key must be to increase the size of the hook/needle combination as you enlarge the bag. Oh, yes, for my largest bag, I switched from the bands of knit and purl to a k2, p2 ribbing. It worked well. I made my large bag from scrap yarn. It may take a bit more than one full ball of yarn if you are starting with a new ball.

These bags are quite handy because they keep your knitting together inside a larger bag. In a pinch you can drop your coins, or even an entire wallet in with your knitting and carry them as a purse.
Purse-sized Drawstring Knitting Pouch
1 ball Sugar n Cream cotton yarn (worsted weight)
1 size F crochet hook
Size 6 (4.00 mm) circular needles
Stitch marker
Pendant tread cutter (optional)

Crocheted base:
Chain 5 and join.
Foundation row: Chain 3. Join. 4 sc in circle.
Rd1: Chain 3. 2 sc in each of the 4 stitches.
Rd.2: Chain 3. *2 sc in first stitch, 1 sc in next stitch* repeat to end.
Rd.3: Chain 3,*2 sc. in first stitch. 2 sc. in each of next two stitches*. Repeat to end.
Stop here for small bag.
(Medium bag. Use a size 8 needle, and size H crochet hook) : Rd. 4: Chain 3, *2sc in first stitch, 3 sc. in next three stitches*. Repeat to end.)
(Large bag Size 8 needle, size H crochet hook) : Rd. 5: Chain 3, *2sc in first stitch, 4 sc. in next four stitches*. Repeat to end.)
Knitted sides: Remove crochet hook. Slip knitting needle into loop. Pick up one stitch around in each single crochet. You will be working from the inside out. What you knit will show as a purl on the finished bag.
Patterns:
Purl band: Knit five rows.

Knit band: Purl five rows.

Drawstring row: *YO, k2t* Repeat to end. If you do not come out even, include the last stitch in the k2t.

Small bag: Purl band, Knit band, Purl band, Drawstring row, Knit band, Purl band. Bind off.
Medium bag: Purl band, Knit band, Purl band, Knit band, Purl band, Drawstring row, Knit band, Purl band. Bind off.
Large bag: Purl band, Knit band, Purl band, Knit band, Purl band, Knit band, Purl band, Drawstring row, Knit band, Purl band. Bind off.
Crochet chain 28” (30”, 32”) long for drawstring. Knot end. If you want to attach a thread cutting pendant, slide it on after chain is finished. Slide it to the center of the string. Starting at center, weave both ends of string (one left, one right) into openings, Both can come out the same opening at the end, or have one opening each, as your spaces allow.
copyright Iris I. Jones 2006