Crocheted Dish Cloths

 I was on a Facebook page where someone asked for a crocheted dishcloth pattern. Someone suggested filet crochet, but it's pretty open. It works for curtains and string bags, but I don't think I'd want it for a dishcloth. I would probably use a waffle stitch and make a square that fits my hand. Commercial dish cloths are about the size of a face cloth. That gets bulky when hand made. I make mine about 6-8" across. If a person wants a design in the cloth, create it by filling in the waffles with solid stitches.  Hm... Now to find my crochet hook.   https://mirellamoments.com/learn-to-crochet-the-waffle-stitch/?fbclid=IwAR0ViZkdlRFkHUGKnrpBPoo8UfP1gbKJ6TDtMeWacnOVOHyXOMrg2w_8OR4

Pack Up Your Troubles in an Old Stringbag

I am in love with string bags! I understand they are a staple in Europe. Folks keep them in their pockets or purses and whip them out at the grocery because their culture doesn't expect a store to provide shopping bags.

They are fast to crochet  and wonderful to use. I made a large one (the varigated blue one) for collecting tomatoes from the garden. There are regular sized ones that live in my purse for trips to the grocery. I no longer fumble with those dratted flimsy plastic produce bags. I pull out my string bag and deposit the onions or potatoes or peppers in a nice, washable cotton bag. (Okay, I carry more than one bag so each veggie has its own string bag.) Yes, there is even a modified string bag for carrying a water bottle.  What isn't to love about a string bag?

So how do you make one? I searched Pinterest for ideas and put together a couple of patterns to create the one I make. One ball of yarn can make two or three bags. My favorite yarn at the moment is Hobby Lobby's Sinfonia because it is fingering weight and has a nice hand. You can see it as the yellow water bottle caddy. There really isn't a gauge on this, but if you find the Size F hook uncomfortable for the yarn you are using, feel free to change hooks. I do recommend sticking to cotton yarn. Acrylic and wool will stretch.

Once the foundation is established, the main crocheting creates the netting of the bag. You are creating squares with each triple crochet above the last. The number of chains across the top of the box will dictate the gauge of your square. I generally stop at 3 chains. If you want a tight netting, stop at 2 chains. Large netting, increase to 4 or more. By the same token, the capacity of your bag is dictated by the size of the base (roughly Rows 1-4.) I usually stop with a 24 stitch base and start expanding from there to create the netting. If you want a larger bag, move up to a 36 or 48 at or some other function of 12  before you expand to create the netting. This may take trial and error (if you are like me) or a bit of math puzzling to work out the rhythm of stitches to get to the multiple that you want. Whatever number you develop for the outer ring of your base will dictate the number of squares in your net. (I know. Clear as mud, but play with it and it will work itself out.)

CROCHET PRODUCE STRINGBAG

1 ball cotton yarn (worsted or fingering weight)

Size F crochet hook

Scissors

Removable stitch marker (optional)

1. Chain six. Join to make a ring. 

2. Chain 1. Turn. Make  5 single crochet (sc) around the ring. Join with a slip stitch. [6 stitches]

3. Chain 2. Turn. 2 double crochet (dc) in each sc.  Join. [12 stitches].

4. Chain 3. Turn. 1 triple crochet (tc) in the loop of first dc. *Chain 1. TC in top of next dc.*  Repeat between the ** to end. Join. [24 stitches].

5. Chain 4. Turn. 1 tc in top of first tc. *Chain 2. tc in top of next tc.* Repeat around. Join in 3rd chain up from the bottom. [24 squares.]

6. Chain 6. Turn. Chain 3. TC in top of first tc. *Chain 3. TC in top of next tc.* Repeat around. Join in 3rd chain up from the bottom.

7-17. Place removable stitch marker at beginning of Row 6 so you have a place keeper to help you count rows. Repeat Row 6 ten times. 

18. Chain 1. Turn. 1 sc in top of first tc. * 2 sc. 1 sc in top of next tc.* Repeat around. Join.

19. Chain 3. Turn. DC In each sc around. Join.

 

20. Chain 1. Turn. SC in each dc around. Cut yarn. Fasten off. Bury ends.

Drawstring: Chain stitch 150 stitches. Fasten off. Weave through the dc at the top edge of the bag. Knot ends together.  

Enjoy your bag!

WATER BOTTLE CARRIER VARIATION

There are only 12 squares in this net instead of the 24 in a produce bag. The bag is narrower but the same height. It has a crocheted strap attached. 

1 ball cotton yarn (worsted or fingering weight)

Size F crochet hook

Scissors

Removable stitch marker (optional)

1. Chain six. Join to make a ring. 

2. Chain 1. Turn. Make  5 single crochet (sc) around the ring. Join with a slip stitch. [6 stitches]

3. Chain 2. Turn. 2 double crochet (dc) in each sc.  Join. [12 stitches].

4. Chain 3. Turn. 1 triple crochet (tc) in the loop of first dc. *Chain 1. TC in top of next dc.*  Repeat between the ** to end. Join. [24 stitches].  

5. Chain 4. Turn. 1 tc in top of first tc. *Chain 2.  Skip one tc. TC in top of next tc.* Repeat around. Join in 3rd chain up from the bottom. [12 squares.]

6. Chain 6. Turn. Chain 3. TC in top of first tc. *Chain 3. TC in top of next tc.* Repeat around. Join in 3rd chain up from the bottom.

7-17. Place removable stitch marker at beginning of Row 6 so you have a place keeper to help you count rows. Repeat Row 6 ten times. 

18. Chain 1. Turn. 1 sc in top of first tc. * 2 sc. 1 sc in top of next tc.* Repeat around. Join.

19. Chain 3. Turn. DC In each sc around. Join.

 

20. Chain 1. Turn. SC in each dc around. Join.

21. SC in each of next for stitches. 

22. Chain 2. Turn. DC in next 3 stitches. [4 stitches]

Repeat Row 22 until strap is the length you want.  I made mine about 50 inches long so I could use it as a crossbody strap. When you have the length you want, fold the bag in half to find the attach point for the end of the strap (opposite the starting point.)  Slip stitch strap to top of bag. Fasten yarn. Burn ends.

If you want, you can add a drawstring to snug the bag against your bottle, but I have not needed it.

Mom's Crocheted Shell Edging

The edging above was my Mom's old standby. She used it to put an edging on pillowcases or a handkerchief, even a shawl. I use a variation of it to edge baby blankets made from the Grandma's Dishcloth pattern posted elsewhere on this blog.

If the edging will be on fabric, such as a pillowcase, you will need to lay a foundation row of single crochet around the edge of the fabric. If your crochet hook is too dull to punch through the fabric, use a darning needle to start the opening. Space the stitches evenly. You will want a total number divisible by 5.

Definitions of abbreviations:
sl -- slip stitch
sc -- single crochet
dc -- double crochet
ch -- chain stitch

Openwork foundation:

1st row: * Ch 5. Skip four stitches. Sc in next stitch.* Repeat between ** to end. Adjust stitches at the end to accommodate the pattern. End with sc where first Ch 5 began.
2nd row: Sl 2 *ch5, sc in center of 5-st. chain. ch5* Repeat between ** to end. End with sc at base of first ch5.

Repeat row 2 three to five times, then finish with one of the Shell Rows. The sample used 3 repeats of row 2 and the Ruffled Shell row.

Ruffled shell row: ch3, dc 4 in first sc, ch 1, sc in center of 5-st. chain, *ch1, dc5 in sc, ch1, sc in center of 5-st.chain* Repeat to end.

OR

Flat shell row: ch3, dc 4 in first sc, ch 1, sc in center of 5-st. chain, *ch1, dc5 in center of next 5-st. chain, ch1, sc in center of 5-st.chain* Repeat to end.


If you want a picot in the center of your shell, use this pattern for the shell part:

Picot shell: ch1, dc3, ch 3, sl last chain to loop of last dc (picot is formed), dc3, ch1

Another Crocheted Favorite

This is the picture of another favorite of mine -- a 3 corner crocheted shawl from a 1970s issue of Magic Crochet . The magazine was printed in France by the same people who did Mon Tricot. I believe it's been out of print for years.

I made the shawl from an off-white mohair like fingering yarn, an acrylic if I remember right, and left off the fringe. My daughter asked for hers to be made from snow-white worsted weight yarn with the fringe. Both shawls were great. Hers is just bigger and warmer, but the fringe is glorious. Now my 8 year old granddaughter wants one. But do I want to do that much crocheting? I really prefer to knit... Ah, well. Grandkids have their ways.


As an aside, I'll mention that the nightgown directions on the left of the page make a great summer gown. I made mine of skirt-weight cotton gauze (not the bandage type gauze! :) ) The crocheted bodice worked beautifully with it. I'd still be wearing it if a new puppy hadn't decided to snack on the shoulder straps and half the side...

To be able to use the directions, you will need to save the image to your computer, then enlarge it.

Crocheted Tam-O-Shanter

Ok, it's not knitting, but I love this pattern. I went looking for it to teach it to a friend, but couldn't find the original. Gee. It's only from the 1960s. Why can't I lay my hands on it?

I studied the hat and wrote the instructions. I'll post it here for posterity.

Crocheted Tam-o-Shanter
If you add a pom-pom to the center of the top, it’s a Tam-O-Shanter. If you leave it plain, it’s a beret. I like to change the color of the last two rows to make a trim.
I’m a bit vague on what size crochet hook I used to make my first Tam. Probably an F or a G. Choose one that fits your yarn. Adjust the stitches according to the thickness of your yarn (bulky will need fewer stitches and fewer rounds) Directions are given for worsted weight yarn.
YARN: 1 skein primary color (Color A); 1 small ball of scrap yarn for trim (Color B).
Stitches you need to know: chain stitch, double crochet, slip stitch, decrease, single crochet.
Abbreviations: Ch = chain stitch; DC = double crochet; SS = slip stitch; DEC = decrease; SC = single crochet. Repeat directions between the *s.

To do a decrease: Work 1 DC until there are 2 loops on the hook, work next DC until there are 4 loops on the hook. Yarn over the hook, pull through and work off 2 loops. There will be 3 loops left on your hook. Yarn over and pull through to work off last 3 loops. One loop will be left on the hook to create the next stitch.
Adjustments for hook size and yarn differences: If work will not lay flat after each round, omit last increase (“DC 2 in following stitch”) of each round. Your row count will change, but the overall effect will be the same. The important thing is to have the increases evenly spaced around the circle. As long as your increases are spaced evenly apart (hence the 1 DC between, then 2 DC between, then 3, etc.) the circle will grow evenly. You should be able to see a “pie shape” pattern growing between your increases.
You may not notice a wave in the edge until several rows past the spot where you should have dropped the extra increase. If that is the case, rip out your work to the last point it laid flat, and redo it omitting the last increase.
Pattern:
Center: Chain six and join (by slip stitching to first stitch of the row). Ch 3. (12 stitches)

1. 1 DC next to Ch 3. *DC 2 in each stitch* around. Join. Ch 3. (1^st Ch3 counts as 1 DC when counting; 24 stitches)
2. 1 DC next to Ch 3. *DC 2 in each stitch* around. Join. Ch 3. (36 stitches)
3. 1 DC next to Ch 3. *DC 1 in next stitch. DC 2 in following stitch* around. Join. Ch 3. (48 stitches).
4. 1 DC next to Ch 3. *DC 1 in next 2 stitches. DC 2 in following stitch* around. Join. Ch 3. (60 stitches)
5. 1 DC next to Ch 3. *DC 1 in next 3 stitches. DC 2 in following stitch* around. Join. Ch 3. (72 stitches)
6. 1 DC next to Ch 3. *DC 1 in next 4 stitches. DC 2 in following stitch* around. Join. Ch 3. (84 stitches)
7. 1 DC next to Ch 3. *DC 1 in next 5 stitches. DC 2 in following stitch* around. Join. Ch 3. (96 stitches)
8. 1 DC next to Ch 3. *DC 1 in next 6 stitches. DC 2 in following stitch* around. Join. Ch 3. (108 stitches)
9. 1 DC next to Ch 3. *DC 1 in next 7 stitches. DC 2 in following stitch* around. Join. Ch 3. (120 stitches).
10. 1 DC next to Ch 3. *DC 1 in next 8 stitches. DC 2 in following stitch* around. Join. Ch 3. (132 stitches; circle should be 11”to 12”” in diameter).

Begin decreasing to make fold and size down to head band:

1. 1 DC next to Ch 3. *DC 1 in next 8 stitches. DEC in following 2 stitches* around. Join. Ch 3. (132 stitches)
2. 1 DC next to Ch 3. *DC 1 in next 6 stitches. DEC in following 2 stitches* around. Join. Ch 3.
3. 1 DC next to Ch 3. *DC 1 in next 5 stitches. DEC in following 2 stitches* around. Join. Ch 3.
4. 1 DC next to Ch 3. *DC 1 in next 4 stitches. DEC in following 2 stitches* around. Join. Ch 3.
5. 1 DC next to Ch 3. *DC 1 in next 3 stitches. DEC in following 2 stitches* around. Join. Ch 3.
6. 1 DC next to Ch 3. *DC 1 in next 2 stitches. DEC in following 2 stitches* around. Join.

Headband:

1. Ch 3. 1 DC next to Ch 3. *DC 1 in each stitch* around
2. Ch 3. 1 DC next to Ch 3. *DC 1 in each stitch* around
3. Cut yarn. Join trim color. “Bury” ends by SC over them in this row. *SC 1 in each stitch* around.
4. *SC 1 in each stitch* around.
5. SS around to secure edge. Cut yarn. Weave in end.

Pom-Pom:
To make a 1”-2” pom-pom.

1. Wind Color B yarn around a heavy piece of cardboard or object about six inches wide (at least 2 inches larger than finished pom-pom diameter, to give you “trim room”.). Make at least 100 windings. You want a full pom-pom. More can’t hurt.
2. Pinch center and hold it firmly. (You may want a helper if this is your first time making a pom-pom.)
3. Slip yarn off cardboard.
4. Tie tightly with a piece of matching yarn. Leave tie ends long for attaching to hat. TIE VERY TIGHTLY. You don’t want threads slipping out of the pom-pom.
5. Fluff to make it take a ball shape. It will be straggly.
6. Holding over a trash can by the tie ends, trim with sharp scissors until the ball is the right shape and “perky”. (Don’t cut the tie ends).
7. Place on hat and pull tie ends through outer edge of the center circle. Tie securely. Bury ends under crochet loops.

Above is the first crocheted Tam I ever made -- circa 1968. I still wear it. It was made from the scrap yarn left over from an Icelandic sweater my mother knitted for my brother. That's some good yarn!